had four small rooms and a common kitchen for four working families. Cramped
quarters, needless to say. In stark contrast to those small living spaces, we had lunch
at the top of the Näsinneula Observation Tower that greeted us with spectacular
views of the city and the lakes. Like the Space Needle, this Tower revolves, making a
360 rotation every forty minutes. Salmon was our appetizer and beef was the main
dish. After lunch we drove to Hauho and visited the historic church of Saint John the
Baptist. This church has the oldest Bible in Finland, dated 1632. Hämeenlinna was
our overnight destination, but we stayed at what I thought was a neo-classical
palace named Hotel Vanajanlinna. It was rectangular in shape with an elegant
restaurant and bar. The bartender is known for having won an international prize
for the best gin and tonic in the world. I spent $13 Euros and had one, and without
question it was deserving of the title. Near this hotel is Finland’s number one rated
golf course in the country.
July 21: The next day took us to the Sibelius Museum in Hämeenlinna. It was the
childhood home of Jean Sibelius. From Sibelius’ home to Mannerheim’s hunting
lodge by Loppi at Marskin Maja was next on our list to see. Mannerheim’s troops
gave that lodge to him on his 75
th
birthday in 1942. We ate lunch there (lamb,
carrots, potatoes) and listened to the host tell us about General Mannerheim’s
habits, likes, and dislikes. He was one loquacious individual. The lodge today is
owned by the Finnish Army Officers’ Union. Before arriving in Helsinki we made one
more stop at Lotta Seura in Tuusula. It is a museum depicting the women who
served in various capacities during the Winter and Continuation Wars, such as in
medical, catering, communications, and equipment. All the women wore gray
uniforms. Their symbol was the swastika, which had peaceful connotations dating as
far back as India’s Gupta Empire; however, Adolf Hitler, who adopted it, forever
changed the denotation and connotation of the symbol, and people no longer see the
symbol for what it once was. Before the day was over we arrived for a two-night
stay at Sokos Hotel Helsinki on the corner of Aleksanterinkatu and Kluuvi.
July 22: Another breakfast to die for. My God, breakfasts will never be the same. I
took off that morning on a very long walk that lasted into the afternoon. My first
visit was the Railway Station and from there I followed Pohjoisplanade (a street and
none have short names) to the waterfront market square (kauppatori). From there I
saw many ships, the island Katajanokka, and the large ferris wheel. After gawking, I
reversed direction to the Helsinki Book Store (four stories) and to the seven-story
Stockmann retail store. If well heeled, it is a shopper’s paradise. By then it was vital
for me to stop at Fazer’s and buy a large bowl of vanilla ice cream for lunch. Next I
walked to Tuomiokirkko (a cathedral) adjacent to Senaatintori (Senate square).
From there I went to see Finland’s premier art gallery, the Ateneum, but it is closed
on Mondays. I was hoping to see Akseli Gallen-Kallela’s triptych of Väinamöinen
pursuing the maiden Aino from the Kalevala, the Epic of Finland. Mannerheimintie
(a major street in Helsinki) took me to the Helsinki Music Center, Parliament House,
the Kansallis-Museo (Finland’s National Museum), and to Finlandia Hall, designed
by Alvar Aalto. There I turned back and made my way to the hotel. Our farewell
dinner was at Kulosaaren Casino Restaurant. The superb meal of beef, salmon,