SHAKER STYLE WORKBENCH
Thanks to everyone who has expressed an interest in my Shaker-style workbench. I do
not have any construction drawings for the bench, and it is unlikely that I will be able to
invest the time that would be required to produce them; however, I’m glad to share the
information, sketches, and photos below which should be of help to anyone who might
wish to build a similar bench. The original Shaker bench is huge (nearly 12’ long!) and
clearly intended for construction of very large pieces of furniture. When I first
considered building this bench I took a hard look at the types of items that I might be
building, the available space in my shop, and sized the bench accordingly. I think it is
important to design the bench that you need, rather than reproduce one exactly from a
plan. Along this line, please see the two photographs of a bench made by Mark Davis.
His bench has some features in common with my bench, but it is clearly designed to
best support his own work.
BASE UNIT
The overall dimensions that I settled on for my bench are 106 x 32” (top surface) and 26
x 76” at the base with a height of 34” from floor to the bench top. The height is lower
than some benches, but well-suited to hand-planing and other hand work.
For the most part the overall construction follows the measured drawings in the Landis
book “The Workbench Book” by Scott Landis, available through Amazon and other
booksellers). The key to building this bench (or understanding the modifications that
are shown in some of the photos below) is having the plan from Landis’ book in front of
you as a guide.
Unlike the original Shaker bench described by Landis, I opted for knock down joinery
wherever possible knowing that I might need to move the bench in the future.
The two ends are 26” deep and 31” high and are framed with mortise and tenon joinery
with a 3/4″ piece of plywood for the panel. The plywood panel is lightly grooved to give
the appearance of being individual boards like in the original bench. The corner “posts”
are about 4” square. Note from the photograph that they are made from an ash “core”
with 3/4” cherry glued to the visible sides. I wanted the cherry for appearance, but did
not want to use solid cherry for the posts due to the cost. The dado in the leg and the
tenon on the cross member help keep the pieces aligned. The tenon is not flush with the
top of the leg in the photo because it has yet to be tightened in place.
The two end units attach to the cross members at the top and bottom both front and
back using countersunk bolts through the ends which are captured by “nuts” in the cross
members to complete the overall base frame. The back of the bench is also a plywood
panel that sits in dados in the ends and cross members. The “nuts” were made from ¼”
steel using taps appropriate to the bolts. They are not unlike those that Lie-Nielsen
uses to hold their benches together (though theirs are more nicely milled. You can
probably find closeup photos of them on their website, Lie-Nielsen.com) The nuts sit in
D-shaped holes made by drilling the hole and chiseling one end flat for the nut. The
rectangular shape of the nuts is necessary since they will be inaccessible during the
final tightening and must remain in place without rotating (like a regular nut which would
require a wrench to keep it from moving.) The photo below also shows this arrangement
at the other end of the bench as well as a tenon that fits into the top of the bench and
holds the top firm against pressure from the front vise. The front vise is mounted in a
front piece that is attached to the corner post. (Read further for more information on the
vises.)
BENCH TOP
The top is 4″ thick for the first 4” (for the bench dogs), changes to ~3″ thick for about a
foot back, and finally to 2″ thick at the back more or less like the bench top in the Landis
drawings (see the end photo to get some sense of how the top thickness changes.
Once again, note that the “core” is ash with 3/4” cherry glued to the top surface.
My top is made in two sections (front and back as shown below) that are attached by
bolts in slots (think like pocket screws except using bolts) under the top and aligned by
a tongue and groove joint. I intended to make the top one piece, but found that it was
going to be too heavy to manage. The top is attached from the frame from below with
some lag bolts in elongated holes to allow for movement at the back. The “steps” at the
back support the top as it becomes less thick. As in Landis’ plans, “caps” are lag-bolted
to the ends of the top to provide a more finished appearance. One is shown sitting on
the bench top.
The drawers and doors are housed in a completely separate plywood “box” that is
closely fitted into the opening in the bench base. It is pretty standard dado, glue and nail
construction just like a kitchen cabinet unit might be done. It slides into the base case
and is held in place mostly by friction when the end bolts are tightened. I also used a
few screws into the frame. There are a couple of support pieces like the one shown
below that support the unit and additionally tie the base of the bench together. The
drawers are just standard dovetailed construction except for the full-extension slides.
VISES
The tail vise to the right is from Lie-Nielsen more or less installed per their instructions.
Because I wanted the vise to have the dovetailed appearance of the original bench, I
opted to build a dovetailed “case” around the components rather than use a block of
wood. The photos below show how the vise was assembled and mounted (the first two
with the vise just sitting on the bench top.) Installing the tail vise is a very labor-
intensive process that requires careful fitting.
After building my current bench I found a similar one posted at#
http://benchcrafted.com/Gallery.html. #It uses Benchcrafted hardware and would be
much easier to build than my bench above. #Bench crafted has posted the#plans at#
http://benchcrafted.com/PDF%20Files/Shaker%20bench%20plans/Benchcrafted
%20Shaker%20Notes%20Preview.pdf
I think it catches some of the flavor of the original bench in a nice way, but in a much
easier to build format. It would certainly be a less labor-intensive and less costly way to
build a Shaker-style bench.
Below are two photos of a bench by Mark Davis that shows adaptations to create a
bench that best meets his own needs.
